Daniel Roth Chronograph
Daniel Roth founded his eponymous brand in 1989 and created some of the fascinating complications made to date, he was also instrumental in Breguet’s resurgence.
The name Daniel Roth still causes furore amongst collectors for reasons that are known to most. In his quest to become a recognised watchmaker, Daniel Roth completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before moving to the epicenter of watchmaking, Vallée de Joux. The revered school in Le Sentier and a seven-year period with Audemars Piguet laid the foundations of Roth’s craft. When the Chaumet Brothers, the then owners of Breguet, were attempting to revamp and restore the glory days of Breguet, they turned to Daniel Roth. Before commencing his work at Breguet, Daniel Roth first went back to watch school in Le Sentier for a year to get a solid technical and academic base in complications and spent an entire year studying Breguet archives. Fourteen years later, Roth, not only brought back the glory days for Breguet, he created some of the most specular watches since Abraham Louis Breguet’s time.
The end of the Chaumet tenure and allowed Daniel Roth to pursue ambitions of his own, in 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. The rise of the independents was almost renaissance like Roth was one of the pioneers in this newfound era of ‘freedom’, other honourable names such as Svend Andersen, Franck Muller, F. P. Journe, Roger Dubuis played a crucial role in allowing this movement to flourish. Interestingly, Roth was able to carve out his own design language that made most of his pieces instantly recognisable. There were subtle cues and nods to Breguet’s work in his designs although what made Roth’s instantly distinguishable was his double-ellipse case, the difference polished facets found on the case, and the unique construction of the case was ahead of its time.
The relatively young brand paired with its eponymous founder, Daniel Roth, had grand ambitions. In order to realise this, the brand accepted an external investment, which resulted in Daniel Roth being sidelined to an extent, similar to that of Roger Dubuis. In 2001, the Daniel Roth brand was sold to the Bvlgari Group and eventually morphed under the name. This resulted in Daniel Roth losing the right to use his own name for his future project.
This double-ellipse white gold Daniel Roth measures 41mm x 38mm in diameter and 11.40mm in thickness. The unique shape of the modernised case along with the addition of the downward slopping lugs allows this ‘large’ sized Daniel Roth to offer unparalleled comfort on the wrist. The semi-skeletonized dial allows one to appreciate the complexity of the chronograph mechanism. The time-only function can be easily distinguished from the chronograph complication due to the elongated hands found for the hours, minutes and seconds. The sub-dials found at both 3 and 9 o’clock are solely used for the 30 minutes and 60-second counters.
The dial is signed “DANIEL ROTH” at 12 o’clock and “SWISS MADE” at 6 o’clock, the individual number of the watch is placed on the case-back.
The automatic movement signed by Daniel Roth, is adjusted to five positions and features thirty-one jewels.
Brand: Daniel Roth
Movement: Calibre DR101
Case Diameter: 41mm x 38mm
Box & Papers: Watch Only.