Roger Dubuis
This 18-carat rose gold Roger Dubuis Hommage Monopusher, reference H40, is limited to just 28 examples and represents one of Dubuis’ finest creations to date. The applied Breguet numerals paired with the matte black textured dial showcases Dubuis’ avant-garde design philosophy.
The landscape of independents as we know it today can be attributed to a select group of watchmakers, such as Roger Dubuis. At the time most talented watchmakers worked for larger brands as full-time watchmakers of freelance movement makers. Only a handful of personalities were able to found their own brands and carve out a market of their own. Dubuis was at the forefront of a renaissance-like change, founding his eponymous brand in 1995.
Dubuis formation initially commenced with Longines in their after-sales department, thereafter Patek Philippe came calling. They identified Dubuis exceptional talent, that led to him in joining the complications department whereby Dubuis was exposed to some to the most spectacular reference made by Patek Philippe i.e. ref. 2499. Dubuis was slowly building a name for himself, similar to that of Svend Andersen co-founder of AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants.
This Hommage Monopusher H40 encapsulates different eras of horology, it remains clear that this particular reference pays respect ‘hommage’ to the two-register chronographs of old, with a modern avant-garde design. The relatively modest 40mm 18-carat rose gold case appears to be rather simplistic at first, upon further inspection, three piece case features a stepped concave bezel and polished lugs resulting in stark contrast with the matte black textured dial. The engraved see-through case back is found throughout Roger Dubuis early work. The underside of the four lugs posses four different hallmarks, Roger Dubuis stamp, AU750, case maker and an additional hallmark. The case back is also signed Roger Dubuis – Horologer Genevois.
The textured matte black dial is where Dubuis’ truly expressed himself as an independent watchmaker, resulting in one of the most well-executed dials under his tenure. The use of over-exaggerated applied Breguet numerals as the hour markers is a nod to the Patek’s of old with an unconventional modern twist. The dial is signed “Roger Dubuis” at 12 o’clock and Bulletin d’Observatoire at 6 o’clock, the shimmery gold textured font interplays with the stark matte black textured dial rather well. The sub registers found at 9 o’clock is used as a 60-second counter and the other found at 3 o’clock is used for the 30-minute chronograph. The tachymeter is found on the outer circumference of the dial. The use of rose gold feuille hands matches those of the sub dials.
This iconic ref. H40 is powered by the Calibre RD 65, which is based on the Lemania 2310, similar to that of the Patek Philippe ref. 5070 and Vacheron Constantin ‘Les Historique’. The movement features 21 jewels and a straight-line level escarpment. This remarkable example appears to have been regulated by Roger Dubuis himself. The meticulously well-finished movement is another trait that early Roger Dubuis features. Interestingly, Roger Dubuis opted to have all his movements certified by the Poinçon de Genève, the hallmark is found on the bridge that holds the balance wheel, mimicking Patek Philippe which was the only brand to have this seal at the time.
Leaving no stone unturned, Dubuis could have easily settled to have his movements COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certified instead he opted to seek the ultimate seal of accuracy in the “Bulletin d’Observatoire”.
The H40 is accompanied by the original black leather wallet which houses the Besançon Observatory Certificate, Geneva Seal hangtag, Extra Case back, Certificate of Origin confirming its sale by the Hour Glass, and original inner and outer boxes.
Size: | 40-42mm |
Style: | Casual, Dress |
Brands: | Roger Dubuis |
This 18-carat rose gold Roger Dubuis Hommage Monopusher, reference H40, is limited to just 28 examples and represents one of Dubuis’ finest creations to date. The applied Breguet numerals paired with the matte black textured dial showcases Dubuis’ avant-garde design philosophy.
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