Roger Dubuis Hommage H37
The landscape of independents as we know it today can be attributed to a select group of watchmakers, such as Roger Dubuis. At the time most talented watchmakers worked for larger brands as full-time watchmakers of freelance movement makers. Only a handful of personalities were able to found their own brands and carve out a market of their own. Dubuis was at the forefront of a renaissance-like change, founding his eponymous brand in 1995.
Dubuis formation initially commenced with Longines in their after-sales department, thereafter Patek Philippe came calling. They identified Dubuis exceptional talent, that led to him in joining the complications department whereby Dubuis was exposed to some to the most spectacular reference made by Patek Philippe i.e. ref. 2499. Dubuis was slowly building a name for himself, similar to that of Svend Andersen co-founder of AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants.
The source of inspiration behind Dubuis’ instantly recognisable designs, can be attributed to both a combination of experience at other prominent brands as well as unleashing the reins and allowing himself to pursue ‘freedom’. In turn, Roger Dubuis quickly gained appreciation amongst collectors and enthusiasts alike. Dubuis went to great lengths to ensure that Roger Dubuis offered an unparalleled Haute Horology, all his movements featured the Geneva Seal and the overall presentation of the watch was of a high standard, usually resulting in an extra solid gold case back, a nod to Patek Philippe. The Hommage collection houses some of Dubuis’ most iconic watches made since the brand was founded. The collection essentially pays tribute to watchmakers of old.
The H37 represents one of the finest time-only Roger Dubuis made, the ivory dial paired with applied 18-carat rose gold Breguet styled numerals creates a subtle hint of contrast paired with refined elegance. At 12 o’clock the dial is signed “ROGER DUBUIS – horloger genevois” the décalque used on the dial appears to be a blend of Bordeaux paired with gold, creating a unique vibrant Bordeaux. Similarly, the ever-elegant minute track features similar characteristics, along with five minute intervals found above the applied hour markers. At 6 o’clock the dial is signed “Bulletin d’Observatoire” indicating that this movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory. Leaving no stone unturned, Dubuis, could have easily settled to have his movements COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certified instead he opted to seek the ultimate seal of accuracy in the “Bulletin d’Observatoire”.
The case does not possess flamboyant properties such as the Sympathie, which does take away from the fact that the overall case is finished to a high standard. The different facets found on the case and generally contrast between brushed and polished finishes. The engraved sapphire case-back allows for the exquisite movement to be seen. Interestingly, the four hallmarks are found on each lug. The crown is signed Roger Dubuis.
The movement found in this 18-carat gold H37 is derived from the Lemania 8810 ébauche, internally named the RD 57. The Lemania 8810 ébauche was one of the most reliable calibres made at the time and allowed for other complications to integrated within the movement.
Brand: Roger Dubuis
Movement: RD 57
Case Diameter: 37mm / Rose Gold
Year: Circa 1998
Box and Papers: Watch Only & Signed Pin Buckle