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  • PASCAL COYON CHRONOMETRE FIRST GENERATIONCHRONOMETRE PASCAL COYON

    Pascal Coyon Chronomètre

    RESERVED

    In 2013 independent watchmaking was blessed with a newcomer named Pascal Coyon. The relatively unknown watchmaker punched far above exceptions with his first wristwatch the Pascal Coyon – Chronomètre. Coyon excelled on many fronts, the most impressive feature was the fact that each piece of the series was tested by the Besançon Observatory.

    The First Generation

    The first generation Chronomètre was made available in three frosted movements, yellow gilt, rose gold, or rhodium. Each movement was limited to 20 examples, as result, the first generation series is composed of just 60 examples. Each original subscriber had the option to select either a 41mm or 42mm stainless steel case and the white lacquer dial configuration along with the hands. It is estimated that the entire series took over four years to deliver and it certainly did not disappoint. The first generation Chronomètre essentially offered a unique value proposition that is hard to come by nowadays. The project was initially covered by our friend SJX and he was kind enough in letting us know that the recently introduced second-generation has sold out. 

    The Dial

    This particular example of the first generation Pascal Coyon Chronomètre features a 42mm stainless steel case paired with a white lacquered dial and Breguet hands. The lacquered dial is rather special due to its configuration at both 12 o’clock and 60 seconds the Arabic numerals are red, adding an element of contrast from the usual dial. The faceted blued Breguet hands stand out rather well due to the white lacquered dial. The sunken 60-second sub dial is reminiscent of older Chronomètres. 

    The 42mm case features a smooth bezel and straight downward sloping lugs. The use of a rather large crown enables the user to wind this watch with relative ease, the crown is signed PC and features a frosted finish within the initials.  

    The Movement

    The mesmerising movement was inspired by the Longines pocket watch calibre 19.70. Despite its similarities, the base movement found on the first generation is derived from a Unitas 6498. Rather unsurprisingly, the movement has been thoroughly reworked, for starters the bridges have been replaced along with the snail-shaped black polish regulating system. The movement displays signs of hand-finished bevels along with bridges and countersinks. The baseplate of the movement displays perlage which contrasts rather well with the overall frosted finish of the movement. The inclusion of black polish is found on the cap of the escapement wheel and the winding clock. The movement is signed P. Coyon – France the typography used is a nod to the Alphonse Mucha posters. The movement is certified by The Observatory of Besançon and features the Vipère hallmark. It is said that the watches are tested for sixteen days, during which they are placed in five successive positions and undergo three different temperatures. 

    This watch comes with its original pin buckle, original wooden box, and observatory papers.

    Brand: Pascal Coyon
    Model: 1st Generation Chronomètre
    Movement: 1900 J
    Case Diameter: 42mm
    Year: 2014
    Box & Papers: Full Set 

  • Out of Stock DE BETHUNE LIMITED EDITION ONE OF FIFTYLIMITED EDITION RARE DE BETHUNE PREOWNED DE BETHUNE

    De Bethune DB28 Special Edition

    SOLD

    In 2002, De Bethune was founded by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet. Prior to that, Flageollet, co-founded THA society with François-Paul Journe, the company was tasked with creating movements for other notable brands. Watchmaking runs in Flageollet’s blood he represents the fourth generation of the Flageollet family to become a watchmaker. Since its inception De Bethune successfully respected traditions of old whilst being at the forefront of technical innovations, as a result, the brand boasts some of the most impressive calibres made to date. Apart from the impressive calibres, De Bethune does not shy away from the fusion of two different worlds, the Maestri Art DW5 Armilia and Dream Watch 6 are a fine example of the artisanal know-how tied into Haute horology. 

    For Flageotte a particular area of interest lies in the organ of a watch, the balance wheel. To put it simply the aim was to produce the most stable and lightest balance wheel possible. In order to sustain the highest level of inertia, Flageollet created a titanium and platinum annual balance wheel, omitting the classic balance wheel, it looked similar to an X. This invention was patented and upgraded in 2006 it featured one of the very first thermocompensated silicon balance wheels. Subsequently, in 2010 Flageollet again improved his concept with a silicon and white gold annular balance wheel. At times the balance wheel seems as if it’s levitating, the external weights are made from a gold and palladium alloy.

    As a result of De Bethune’s constant quest of perfecting the balance wheel, the brand has won numerous awards. In 2011 De Bethune was awarded the prestigious Aiguille d’Or (golden hand) by the GPHP (Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève). In order to commemorate this monumental milestone, the reference DB28 Special Edition – Limited to 50 examples was introduced in 2011. 

    The dial features the classic Côtes de Geneve or rather Côtes De Bethune, in manipulating the Côtes De Bethune achieves to bring the focus to the centre point of the dial. The main difference in this reference is the polished steel skeletonised hour circle and a blackened steel and platinum moon which is accurate to within one day every 122 years. The steel domed black polished contemporary hands add depth to an already impressive dial. 

    The distinctive shape of the mirror-polished zirconium-titanium case is thought to have been inspired by pocket watches. De Bethune cases feature a unique patented floating lugs system, in this case, the brand opted to use the zirconium lugs due to its dark and resistant properties. The case measures 42.60mm x 9.20mm due to the unique lugs the watch essentially hugs the wrist, providing for extreme comfort. The placement of the crown is found at 12 o’clock and the rivets found on the oversized crown makes it relatively easy to wind or set the time. 

    This manually wound DB28 Special Edition is powered by calibre DB2115, the movement features twin barrels designed to reduce friction and efficiently transmit a maximum of energy to the escarpment. The movement is finished to an exceptional standard with contrasting techniques found throughout the movement such as hand-chamfered and polished steel parts. The 6-day power reserve is depicted through an 18-carat gold hand. The elusive balance wheel is made of silicon/palladium it also features a balance-spring with a flat terminal curve, protected by the triple pare-chute system. 

    The watch is currently at service with De Bethune. 

    Brand: De Bethune
    Model: DB28 – Special Edition Limited to 50 examples
    Movement: DB 2115
    Case Diameter: 42.90mm x 9.20mm
    Year: 2012 Box & Papers: NA

  • iwc limited editioniwc schaffhausen

    IWC Portuguese Skeleton Tourbillon

    RESERVED

    This remarkable 18-carat red gold IWC Portuguese Skeleton Tourbillon is limited to just 25 examples. The hand-wound calibre 98920 boasts an impressive 54-hour power reserve, the movement is finished to a high standard with contrasting techniques found throughout the calibre.

    The heritage of IWC is deeply rooted in American pioneering spirit and entrepreneurship. Florentine Ariosto Jones, a watchmaker from Boston, founds the International Watch Company in 1868. He draws on the help of eminently qualified Swiss watchmakers, modern technology, and hydropower sourced from the nearby River Rhine to manufacture pocket watch movements of the highest possible quality. The Rauschenbachs, an industrialist family from Schaffhausen, take over the company following Jones’ return to the United States. During its early years, IWC produces pocket watches with a digital “Pallweber” display, as well as wristwatches for women and men. In 2000 the brand was sold to the Richemont Group, who then reinvigorated the entire collection. Since then IWC is predominately known for its pilot, Ingenieur, Portuguese, Aquatimer and Portofino collection.

    Our Example

    This 43.10mm Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound Skeleton is housed in an 18-carat red gold case. This reference IW546201 is limited to just 25 examples. Originally thought to have been introduced in 2015, all pieces were spoken for upon the launch of this exquisite IWC. This particular example forms part of the ever-elegant Portuguese collection. The Portuguese collection stems from a rather creative method of using a pocket watch movement for a wristwatch, as such ref. 325 was introduced in 1939. The 43mm case dimensions were far ahead of their time. Interestingly, this manually wound Tourbillon, mimics the original ref. 325 in many ways. Firstly, the use of the ‘oversized’ case is a nod to the past. Secondly, the extremely thin bezel is reminiscent of the original ref. 325, this essentially allows for a highly legible dial. Thirdly, the movement structure mimics that of the ref. 325. Lastly, the polished feuille hands are also found on the original reference.

    The Movement

    The hand-wound Caliber IWC 98920, measures 37.80mm and suits the case rather well. The 54-hour power reserve beats at 28’800 vph, the tourbillon takes 60 seconds to complete a full rotation.

    The silver-plated dial found at the 6 o’clock marker is a 60-second counter, the discrete minute and hour markers are found on the outer track of the watch. The black lacquer is applied directly onto the baseplate of the dial, the use of polished hour markers allows the dial to be highly legible. Additionally, the black polish technique used on certain bridges of the movement blends into the watch rather well due to the frosted finish on other components of the movement.

    The 43.10mm case almost resembles a two-tone look due to the brushed finish found in the middle of the case. Despite measuring a modest 43mm by 11mm, the Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound wears extremely well due to the downward-sloping lugs.

    The Set

    This watch remains in honest condition having never been polished, we leave this to the discretion of the next owner. The watch is accompanied with its original box, papers dated 2015, cloth, and user manual.

  • Out of Stock IMG 1330 e16068240387575074 03

    Patek Philippe Grande Complication 5074P

    SOLD

    Complications & Artisans

    Patek Philippe has continuously been at the forefront of revolutionary complications in both pocket and wristwatches. The manufacture has successfully been granted over 100 patents since its founding. Patek Philippe, remains to be one of the very few manufactures that are still willing to and capable of servicing pieces from the 19th century, the savoir-faire has trickled down the generations due to the remarkable management of the brand.  Patek Philippe is recognised to have embraced the artisanal craftsmanship found in the heart of Geneva and managed to fuse these remarkable creations into both pocket and wristwatches. A fine example is the marquetry technique, which is a decorative technique used traditionally on furniture, smaller wooden objects, and pictorial panels. The painstaking process consists of selecting different types of wood and gradients, which is then cut out into smaller pieces (mosaique like). The principle is always to cut the veneers according to a drawing and glue them to a base.

    It is widely believed that the first example of minute repeaters appeared in the mid 18th century. At the end of the 18th century, Mr. A. L. Breguet designed a mechanism that would strike the hours, quarters, and minutes. The innovator, Mr. A. L. Breguet, replaced the traditional bell with a set of coiled wire gongs, instantly saving a lot of space and offered different tones (vibrations). By the late 19th century the minute repeater mechanism had been perfected to its current configuration.

    Current

    Today, Patek Philippe is recognised as having one of the most crystal clear chimes in the entire industry. The reference 5074P is a testament to the past whilst forging ahead with modern techniques. The 42mm platinum wide, flat, and polished bezel is reminiscent of the reference 5070. The use of the rather large bezel nearly conceals the slider found on the left-hand side of the case. The applied 18-carat white gold polished indexes create a rather pleasing contrast to the black dial. The spacious dial features three registers for the perpetual calendar, the dauphine hands allow the wearer to nearly have an uninterrupted view of the complication throughout the day.  

    Chimes

    Most modern minute repeaters feature two gongs, something must strike the gongs, and in the case, it is the hammers. When developing the striking mechanism the weight and the position of each hammer must be perfectly adapted to the corresponding gong. Furthermore, and possibly more important, the strength of the spring that controls each hammer must be exactly proportional to the hammer weight, otherwise, the resulting sound will be blurred – either too weak or too strong. The 5074P achieves a fascinatingly loud chime due to the ‘cathedral’ gong.  The cathedral gong differs from classic gongs in terms of its extraordinary length. Cathedral gongs wrap around the movement with a length equivalent to nearly two circumferences and are thus twice as long as classic ones. The result is a rich tone with a, particularly long reverberation.

    Movement

    The extraordinary caliber R 27 Q (the R stands for repetition and the Q for quantieme) combines an automatic winding perpetual calendar with an extraordinary cathedral-chime minute repeater. The 467 components of the movement are finished to a high standard. The hammers display separate bevels between their black-polish horizontal surfaces and the brushed vertical sides. The power reserve ranges from 38-48 hours, the diameter of the movement measures 28mm, and the high 6.9mm. The 22-carat gold mini rotor is flushed with beautiful decorative techniques. Additionally, the movement number 500XXXX correctly corresponds to the Certificate of Origin. 

    Error Dial

    The overall condition of the dial is of a high standard, that being said, underneath the 6 o’clock marker, the word “SWISS” is incomplete the only legible letters are the SW …, upon closer inspection, we also noticed that the outer minute track is incomplete. Similarly, the 29-minute marker is incomplete. Whilst we cannot be entirely sure of how this occurred we believe that this might be a misprinted dial. The is no evidence to suggest that the dial was tampered with or damaged during service.

    The set

    This 42mm reference 5074P-001 is accompanied by both its interior and exterior box, as well as the original papers dated 2013.

    Brand: Patek Philippe
    Model: 5074P-001
    Movement: R 27 Q 
    Case Diameter: 42mm / Platinum 
    Year: 2013 (sold)
    Box and Papers: Full Set.