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  • F. P. Journe Invenit et Fecit One of Eight Rare Limited Edition Vagabondage V1WANDERING HOURS

    F. P. Journe Vagabondage 1

    RESERVED

    This exceptionally rare Vagabondage I is one of eight examples made for Singaporean retailer Sincere. The set of eight watches are easily distinguishable due to their double signature, the 8 examples form part of 69 piece limited edition Vagabondage I.

    Origins of the Vagabondage Series

    By definition vagabondage (vagrancy) means wandering from place to place without any settled home, a play on the wandering hours and minutes found on the Vagabondage 1.  In 2004 F. P. Journe donated three unique pieces for the benefit of the ICM Foundation (Institute of Brain and Spinal cord in Paris), a charity that F. P. Journe is still associated with today. In total three Vagabondages of different metals (rose, yellow and white) were donated, with each piece representing an individual lot. The three lots totalled a sum of CHF 210’450. These three pieces essentially serve as ‘pre’ vagabondages V1, what makes them entirely unique is the use of the brass movements. Interestingly, the three unique pieces are the only Vagabondages to feature the brand’s name on the dial, more specifically, F. P. Journe Invenit et Fecit 30 Years of Antiquorum.

    A year later, considering the successful sale of the three unique pieces, F. P. Journe unveiled the Vagabondage 1 which would be produced in a limited edition of just 69 pieces. The Vagabondage 1 represented the first ‘serially’ produced F. P. Journe to not feature a distinctive round case, but rather a flat-shaped tortue case. The architecture of the movement found on the V1 is similar to the Chronometre a Resonance, the double barrels are solely found on the V1, whereas its predecessors the V2 and V3 feature single barrels. The movement is signed F. P. Journe – Invenit et Fecit – 19 Jewels – 18K Gold Movement, the calibre number is not mentioned nor is the Geneva made. Interestingly, the exposed balance wheel appears to be regulated with a Trivois regulator as spotted by our friend SJX.

    From a legibility perspective, the V1 remains the most friendly, the current hour is housed in a white squarish frame and the pointer found above the square indicates the minutes. In short, the hour makes a full 360-degree rotation before the hour jumps and changes as it nears 12 o’clock and then starts all over again. The Sincere Logo is found between each hour marker and indirectly facilitates to read the time, the regular edition does not feature any logos between the hour markers. Within the set of 69 examples, 8 examples feature possibly the only double signed F. P. Journe’s made for then retailer Sincere in Singapore.

    For more information on the Vagabondage Series, we encourage you to read this

    Movement

    The hefty platinum case measures 41 mm x 34 mm and just 6.70 mm in height and houses the venerable 18-carat rose gold Calibre 1504. The Calibre 1504 is equipped with 19 jewels and a 48-hour power reserve, the calibre was entirely discontinued and has never resurfaced since. The source of inspiration behind Vagabondage 1 can be traced back to the Carpediem Watch which was completed in 1997, prior to the existence of the brand F. P. Journe. It is believed that the Carpediem watch was made at the request of a prominent collector, after which, a certain brand, Cartier (hint: the crown of the Carpediem Watch) expressed an interest in purchasing the movement, fortunately for the Vagabondage Series, this never came to fruition. Interestingly, the movement is also signed 1954 – Sincere – 2004, making this one of the only known double signed F. P. Journe’s.

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Vagabondage I – Sincere Edition  
    Movement: 1504 
    Case Diameter: 41mm x 34mm
    Year: Circa 2004
    Box and Papers: Full Set.
  • AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH 41MM STAINLESS STEELSPORTS WATCH AUDEMARS PIGUET

    Audemars Piguet 26331ST

     

    $59,000

    Originally introduced at SIHH in 2017 the reference 26331ST builds upon its predecessor reference 26320ST through subtle updates to the dial and utility of the chronograph.

    The History of The Royal Oak 

    First unveiled by Audemars Piguet in 1972 and designed by the visionary Gerald Genta, the original reference 5402A Royal Oak fundamentally changed the landscape of horology, paving the way for high-end luxury sports watches. The design is thought to have been inspired by the portholes found on a scaphander diving helmet and is said to have been drawn overnight by Gerald Genta and presented the following day at Basel World circa 1971.

    The original Royal Oak was not only revolutionary in terms of design, but it was also the most expensive steel watch ever made, retailing north of 3’750 Swiss Francs. As a result, the Royal Oak was not instantly celebrated, it took several years before the brand was able to galvanize its collectors and fellow enthusiasts. The movement that powered the now-iconic reference was derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra-thin JLC 920 calibre, the ultra-thin AP-calibre 2121 is still used in some of Audemars Piguet’s references today.

    The Royal Oak now possesses a cult-like following and is arguably Audemars Piguet’s bestseller. Since 1972, the Royal Oak has come a long way, although the original design cues found in the very first Royal Oak, reference 5402, are still ever-present today.

    The Dial

    The Grande Tapisserie is synonymous with Audemars Piguet, the arduous task of creating the waffle-like pattern is not as seamless as it appears. The dial has completely been reworked from its predecessor, reference 26320ST, the major difference lies within the three sub-dials and the typography used. In the past, all sub-dials retained the exact same dimensions, this ref. 26331 ST, no longer follows that tradition, the 60-second counter is shrunken to accommodate for the enlarged 12-hour and 30-minute counters. The sub-dials feature a brushed chapter ring and guilloched interior resulting in a fine contrast. The hands found on the sub-dial are now jet black. At 12 o’clock the dial is signed Audemars Piguet – Automatic and at 6 o’clock it’s signed Swiss Made.

    The Movement

    This 41mm stainless steel reference 26331 ST is powered by the venerable calibre 2385. The calibre stems from Frédéric Piguet’s ebauche calibre 1185. The movement beats at 21’600 vph and features 304 parts. The major update within this reference is the activation of the chronograph, the traditional method required unscrewing the crown guards. This reference still possesses crown guards although they are not functional, the chronograph can be used with relative ease, unlike previous models. Through fine engineering, the water-resistance remains unchanged from its usual 50m.

    The Set

    This watch was recently serviced and is accompanied by both its inner and outer boxes signed Audemars Piguet, as well as its original warranty card.

    Brand: Audemars Piguet
    Model: 26331ST.OO.1220ST.01
    Movement: Calibre 2385 
    Case Diameter: 41mm
    Year: 2019 (sold)
    Box & Papers: Full Set.

     

  • F . P. JOURNE INVENIT ET FECIT STEEL SET LIMITED TO 38 EXAMPLESOCTA RDM 38mm LIMITED EDITION

    F. P. Journe Octa Rdm Steel

     

    $155,000

    In 2015 F. P. Journe announced that the iconic 38mm case size would be phased out in favour of the 40-42mm cases. In order to commemorate its 25-year production run the brand released a coffret ‘set’ of 5 emblematic references, the coffret was limited to just 38 examples. This marked the first time the 38mm case size would be made available in Stainless Steel with rose gold movements, the set included the following watches: Tourbillon Souverain, Chronomètre à Résonance, Octa Automatic, Octa Calendrier and the Chronomètre Souverain.

    From a historical standpoint, F. P. Journe has always offered his watches in a 38mm case, this dates back to his first mechanical wristwatch which was exhibited at Basel World in 1991. At the time most watches measured a modest 33-36mm, the reason the tourbillon stood at 38mm was due to the complexity of the movement which incorporated one of the first Tourbillon’s regulated by a remontoir d’egalité. As the brand evolved so did the case sizes, 2001 marked the introduction of the Ruthenium Collection which led to the first 40mm case size. It is also believed that the interest in the 38mm case sizes waned as the years went by. At the same time, certain references could no longer support the 38mm cases, the Optimum for instance would simply not fit in a 38mm case. In improving the overall legibility of the Octa Lune and Quantième Perpétuel F. P. Journe realized that the future lay in the 40-42mm case sizes.

    A fitting tribute

    In order to celebrate the end of the historic 38mm case after 25 years of existence, F. P. Journe created 38 exclusive collector’s set containing 5 emblematic and historic watches. The set was reserved for historic collectors of the brand and by application only. Certain collectors split up their sets over time such as this example which was originally sold in 2015.

    This stainless steel 38mm Octa Réserve de Marche is 1 of 38 examples made. The Octa Réserve de Marche was originally introduced in 2001 as the brand’s first automatic movement powered by calibre 1300. The reference was phased in 2016, shortly after the introduction of this steel series.

    The gold dial pays tribute to the early brass examples that date from 2001-2004. The overall layout of the dial remains identical to the original. The separate silver guilloche dial for the hours and minutes is held together by three screws found on the periphery of the steel bell-shaped frame, the overall appearance of the frame is smoother compared to the earlier brass examples. The numerals are displayed through a unique use of dark Mediterranean blue lacquer which appears to be unique to this series. The stark contrast of the blue steeled hands is a trait found on F. P. Journes apart from boutique editions. The dial is signed F. P. Journe – Invenit et Fecit Latin for invented and made and features a 120-hour power reserve scale finished in a similar dark Mediterranean blue lacquer.

    Movement

    As is the case with all references found within the Octa Collection, when fully wound the indicator would read ‘120’ and as the power reserve gradually runs down the indicator would display how many hours of power are left.

    The meter-long mainspring supplies an average of 850 gr of torque, limiting the loss in balance amplitude to 25% over the five-day period. Beyond that time, the watch will continue to go for another day or two, but the amplitude loss no longer guarantees precision timekeeping.

    What makes this particular example all the more special is the gold movement decorated with circular Côtes de Genève paired with a first time 38mm steel case.

    The watch comes with a copy of the original set’s certificate.

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Octa Réserve de Marche (Acier XX/38)
    Movement: Calibre 1300.3 Rose Gold 
    Case Diameter: 38mm Stainless Steel 
    Year: 2015 
    Box & Papers: Copy of the Original Certificate. 
  • H37 Roger DubuisH37 Dial

    Roger Dubuis Hommage H37

     

    $29,000

    The landscape of independents as we know it today can be attributed to a select group of watchmakers, such as Roger Dubuis.  At the time most talented watchmakers worked for larger brands as full-time watchmakers of freelance movement makers. Only a handful of personalities were able to found their own brands and carve out a market of their own. Dubuis was at the forefront of a renaissance-like change, founding his eponymous brand in 1995. 

    Dubuis formation initially commenced with Longines in their after-sales department, thereafter Patek Philippe came calling. They identified Dubuis exceptional talent, that led to him in joining the complications department whereby Dubuis was exposed to some to the most spectacular reference made by Patek Philippe i.e. ref. 2499. Dubuis was slowly building a name for himself, similar to that of Svend Andersen co-founder of AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants.

    Design

    The source of inspiration behind Dubuis’ instantly recognisable designs, can be attributed to both a combination of experience at other prominent brands as well as unleashing the reins and allowing himself to pursue ‘freedom’. In turn, Roger Dubuis quickly gained appreciation amongst collectors and enthusiasts alike. Dubuis went to great lengths to ensure that Roger Dubuis offered an unparalleled Haute Horology, all his movements featured the Geneva Seal and the overall presentation of the watch was of a high standard, usually resulting in an extra solid gold case back, a nod to Patek Philippe. The Hommage collection houses some of Dubuis’ most iconic watches made since the brand was founded. The collection essentially pays tribute to watchmakers of old.

    Our Example

    The H37 represents one of the finest time-only Roger Dubuis made, the ivory dial paired with applied 18-carat rose gold Breguet styled numerals creates a subtle hint of contrast paired with refined elegance. At 12 o’clock the dial is signed “ROGER DUBUIS – horloger genevois” the décalque used on the dial appears to be a blend of Bordeaux paired with gold, creating a unique vibrant Bordeaux. Similarly, the ever-elegant minute track features similar characteristics, along with five minute intervals found above the applied hour markers. At 6 o’clock the dial is signed “Bulletin d’Observatoire” indicating that this movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory. Leaving no stone unturned, Dubuis, could have easily settled to have his movements COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certified instead he opted to seek the ultimate seal of accuracy in the “Bulletin d’Observatoire”.

    The case does not possess flamboyant properties such as the Sympathie, which does take away from the fact that the overall case is finished to a high standard. The different facets found on the case and generally contrast between brushed and polished finishes. The engraved sapphire case-back allows for the exquisite movement to be seen. Interestingly, the four hallmarks are found on each lug. The crown is signed Roger Dubuis. 

    The movement found in this 18-carat gold H37 is derived from the Lemania 8810 ébauche, internally named the RD 57. The Lemania 8810 ébauche was one of the most reliable calibres made at the time and allowed for other complications to integrated within the movement.

    Brand: Roger Dubuis

    Model: H37 

    Movement: RD 57 

    Case Diameter: 37mm / Rose Gold 

    Year: Circa 1998

    Box and Papers: Watch Only & Signed Pin Buckle 

  • A LANGE SOHNE ZEITWERK STRIKING HOUR REF 145.032A LANGE SOHNE ZEITWERK REF 145.032

    A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Striking Time

     

    $95,000

    The A. Lange & Sohne – Zeitwerk Striking Time represents one of the most spectacular contemporary watches made in the last decade. Building upon the already impressive ‘time only’ Zeitwerk originally introduced in 2009, the Striking Time placed Lange in a league of their own.

    The Brand

    Saxony’s meteoric rise and fall lead to the eventual creation of A. Lange & Söhne, founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1845. The foundations of German watchmaking can be attributed to both Lange and his mentor Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes. Sadly, the company A. Lange & Söhne was expropriated after World War II as a result the brand disappeared. In 1990, Walter Lange, Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s great-grandson, ventured to resuscitate the brand. For the second time, a watch manufactory named A. Lange & Söhne, was built from scratch in Glashütte. The brand is now known to have created some of the most appreciated complications in the industry through its unique design language and master engineering.

    The origins of the Zeitwerk

    The renowned architect Gottfried Semper was presented with the opportunity to build the Dresden Opera House, upon accepting this task, he was faced with a dilemma. A livid King Frederick Augustus II of Saxony noticed that most of his fellow patrons would tend to use the striking mechanism found in their pocket watches in order to tell time, often disturbing the performance. The modern-day equivalent of a phone ringing at a theatre. As a result, King Frederick Augustus II requested for an efficient solution, a large clock for the auditorium was a must … in order to satisfy the King’s request of displaying a large clock for the Auditorium, Semper turned to master-watchmaker Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes, who in turn was instrumental in Ferdinand Adolph Lange formation. The ingenious method of using a mechanical digital clock that would turn every hour and every five minutes through two rotating barrels, not only solved the issue, it also allowed for the entire auditorium to tell time with ease. Gutkaes, impressive creation left a profound impact on the then young Ferdinand A. Lange.

    Our Example

    In the past, the concept of the mechanical digital watch was implemented on several occasions but never in a reliable manifestation. Originally introduced in 2014, the reference 145.032 features a 44.2mm pink gold case and is powered by the highly acclaimed calibre L043.2. This particular reference is an evolution of the original ‘time-only’ Zeitwerk which was introduced in 2009. The difference being the striking time, which is capable of striking both the hours and quarters. The introduction of the Zeitwerk was a turning point for the rather conservative brand, from a design perspective very few brands successfully achieved this harmonious feature of having both digital jumping hours and minutes, the only other example that comes to mind is the F. P. Journe Vagabondage II. What both of these watches have in common is a rather short power reserve. The energy needed to achieve an instantaneous ‘flick’ of the digital hours and minutes is rather high. The ZeitBrücke (time bridge) which indicates both the hours, minutes, and seconds is made out of untreated German silver, the left-hand side is used for the hours, the right-hand side is used for the minutes, and the sweeping 60 second counter is found at the 6o o’clock position. The power reserve found is found at 12 o’clock, interestingly there is a gong that circles the periphery of the entire dial along with strikers found at the eight and four o’clock markers. A high chime is used for each quarter and a deeper chime for the hours. In order to enter stealth (silent) mode, there is a decoupling clutch found at 4 o’clock in the form of an external button. In order to set the time the crown found at 2 o’clock is solely used for timekeeping adjustments.

    The Movement

    The movement found on this mechanical marvel is the manual wound L043.2 which consists of 78 jewels and 528 parts. The tremendous force needed to advance the discs is delivered by a patented mainspring barrel, and the precise timing is controlled by a patented constant-force escapement. The use of a constant force mechanism allows for the jumping minutes and hours to work flawlessly. Prior to the seconds hitting the sixty-second mark, the minute disc jitters slightly as it is ‘fully’ wound, upon the second hand hitting the sixty-second marker, the disc ‘automatically’ changes as the remontoir unwinds. The Steel hammers are finished to the highest standard through the use of black polish along with hand-finished chamfering. They do not appear as a distraction on an already busy dial due to the way they seamlessly blend in with the white gold dial.

    The striking hour mechanism uses a twin stacked snail cam that has three prongs to drive the quarters and the other features a single prong for the hours, the process resets itself every 60 minutes.

    The Set

    This rose gold Zeitwerk Hour Strike comes with its original box, papers, and supporting materials.

    Brand: A. Lange & Sohne
    Model: Zeitwerk – Hour Strike 
    Movement: L043.2
    Case Diameter: 44.2mm 
    Year: 2018
    Box & Papers: Full Set 
  • AUDEMARS PIGUET STAR WHEEL YELLOW GOLD RARE MECHANICAL WRIST WATCHStar Wheel 10 1

    Audemars Piguet Star Wheel

     

    $36,000

    Today the DNA of Audemars Piguet lies within its most successful collection, originally, launched in 1972, the Royal Oak proved to be a shining star for the brand. Prior to Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei’s, Urwerk, lay the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel, originally, introduced in 1991. The then newly introduced ref. 25720 managed to respect traditions of old and also offer an avant-garde mystic.

    Star Wheel Origins

    The origins of the Star Wheel date back to 1655, upon the request of Pope Alexander VII, who was thought to have complained about the futile tick-tock sounds of the clocks in his sleeping quarters, requested for a silent solution. The Campani brothers were approached by Cardinal Barberini and tasked with the ‘honour’ of solving this rather farcical dilemma. The Campani family was one of innovators and at the forefront of the renaissance era. In doing away with the verge escarpment, Pietro Tommaso Campani, invented the silent escapement, by using a pendulum that could turn continuously without interruption. The nature of the business was different back in 1980-1990, watchmakers, were permitted a certain degree of freedom nowadays this would be hard to come by.  It is rumoured that the watchmakers at Audemars Piguet drew inspiration from the Campani brothers and it is difficult to argue otherwise. 

    Case

    The 18-carat yellow case of the reference 25720 remains true to Audemars Piguet’s heritage, the use of a step bezel accentuates the hand-engraved dial. The modestly sized 36mm case featured downward sloping lugs allowing for unparalleled comfort on the wrist. The contrasting use of both brushed and polished facets found on the case is reminiscent of older circular Audemars Piguet references. As much as the case embodies the classical side of Audemars Piguet the dial is a completely different story.

    Dial  

    The Star Wheel’s timekeeping requirements are denoted by three sapphire discs, each disc features four printed hour markers. The 8 sided star found on the axis of each disc is responsible for the gilding hours, the discs move gradually until the 60-minute mark is reached, thereafter the next disc restarts the entire procedure. The sober typography allows for a rather undisturbed view of the impressive hand-engraved 18-carat gold dial. Most examples found within reference 25720 feature traditional guilloché, this particular example highlights the artisanal craft of Audemars Piguet. The carefully hand-engraved dial adds another twist and dimension to an already fascinating reference. 

    The reference 25720 is powered by the calibre 2124 is based on the Jaeger LeCoultre ébauche 888. The movement is finished to a high standard and features an open case back highlighting the   Côtes de Genève. The movement boasts a 48-hour power reserve and adjusted to five positions. 

    Brand: Audemars Piguet

    Model: 25720BA

    Movement: Calibre 2224

    Case Diameter: 36mm, Yellow Gold

    Year: 1992

    Box & Papers: Original Box and Extract (Upon Request)

  • PATEK PHILIPPE 3970EJ GRANDE COMPLICATIONPATEK PHILIPPE GRANDE COMPLICATION YELLOW GOLD

    Patek Philippe 3970EJ

     

    $90,000

    The importance of the perpetual calendar chronograph in the history of Patek Philippe cannot be understated, the modestly sized reference 3970 introduced in 1986 provided a glimpse into the modernized production for the brand. Up until then, its predecessor reference 2499, produced from 1950-1985, was thought to have been produced in rather modest quantities (circa 349 examples) whereas the 3970s total production would be closer to 4’200 examples.

    The 3970 represented a turning point for grande complications at Patek Philippe, prior to this both references, 1518 and 2499 combined production stood at around 630 examples. Despite its rather long production, 1986-2004, the reference 3970 can be segmented into four different generations, this particular example ref. 3970EJ forms part of the last generation and is believed to have been sold in 2001.

    The fourth generation is similar to that of the third, with minor changes such as the updated serial number range and the addition of the deployant clasp. Additionally, the indexes feature a pointed finish as well as the pointed baton hands, it is estimated that no more than 2000 examples exist across the four metals.

    Dial

    The dial features 8 applied 18-carat gold pointed indexes and 4 applied 18-carat gold applied markers, similarly, the hands also mimic those of the batons. The dual apertures found at 12 o’clock just above the ‘Patek Philippe Geneve’ are used for both the day and month. The sunken sub-dial found at 3 o’clock is used for the 30-minute chronograph as well as the leap year indicator. At 9 o’clock the sunken sub-dial is used for the 60-second counter and a day-night indicator. The day and moon phase indicator are found at 6 o’clock. The overall aesthetic of the 3970 oozes elegance and the lack of a tachymeter allows for an undisturbed view of the dial. The 36mm case wears well due to its elongated lugs as well as the heft of the watch. There are four external pushers found on the periphery of the case, these can be used to set the complication.

    Movement

    This very reference also signified the transition from Valjoux based movements to Lemania based movements. The marked the first lemania movement to be found in a Patek Philippe wristwatch, the iconic calibre 2310 dates back to 1942. The under Patek Philippe, the calibre 2310 was renamed as the CH27-70Q and features an added perpetual calendar module. The movement is finished to a high standard and features different finishing techniques throughout the calibre.

    Brand: Patek Philippe
    Model: 3970EJ 
    Movement: CH27-70Q
    Case Diameter: 36mm / Yellow Gold  
    Year: 2001
    Box and Papers: Extract Copy  
  • Out of Stock ROGER DUBUIS HOMMAGE 37MMROGER DUBUIS WHITE GOLD H37

    Roger Dubuis Hommage H37

    SOLD

    This 18-carat white gold 37mm Roger Dubuis – Hommage pays tribute to watchmakers of old and is limited to just 28 examples. The Hommage collection features some of the most well-executed time-only Roger Dubuis’. 

    The landscape of independents as we know it today can be attributed to a select group of watchmakers, such as Roger Dubuis.  At the time most talented watchmakers worked for larger brands as full-time watchmakers of freelance movement makers. Only a handful of personalities were able to found their own brands and carve out a market of their own. Dubuis was at the forefront of a renaissance-like change, founding his eponymous brand in 1995.

    Dubuis’ formation initially commenced with Longines in their after-sales department, thereafter Patek Philippe came calling. They identified Dubuis exceptional talent, that led to him in joining the complications department whereby Dubuis was exposed to some to the most spectacular reference made by Patek Philippe i.e. ref. 2499. Dubuis was slowly building a name for himself, similar to that of Svend Andersen co-founder of AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants. 

    Design

    The source of inspiration behind Dubuis’ instantly recognisable designs, can be attributed to both a combination of experience at other prominent brands as well as unleashing the reins and allowing himself to pursue ‘freedom’. In turn, Roger Dubuis quickly gained appreciation amongst collectors and enthusiasts alike. Dubuis went to great lengths to ensure that Roger Dubuis offered an unparalleled Haute Horology, all his movements featured the Geneva Seal and the overall presentation of the watch was of a high standard, usually resulting in an extra solid gold case back, a nod to Patek Philippe. The Hommage collection houses some of Dubuis’ most iconic watches made since the brand was founded. The collection essentially pays tribute to watchmakers of old.

    Our Example

    The H37 represents one of the finest time-only Roger Dubuis made, the lacquered dial paired with applied 18-carat white gold Breguet styled numerals creates a subtle hint of contrast paired with refined elegance. At 12 o’clock the dial is signed “ROGER DUBUIS – horloger genevois” the décalque used on the dial appears to be stark black. Similarly, the ever-elegant minute track features similar characteristics, along with five minute intervals found above the applied hour markers. At 6 o’clock the dial is signed “Bulletin d’Observatoire” indicating that this movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory. Leaving no stone unturned, Dubuis, could have easily settled to have his movements COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certified instead he opted to seek the ultimate seal of accuracy in the “Bulletin d’Observatoire”.

    The case does not possess flamboyant properties such as the Sympathie, which does take away from the fact that the overall case is finished to a high standard. The different facets found on the case and generally contrast between brushed and polished finishes. The engraved sapphire case-back allows for the exquisite movement to be seen. Interestingly, the four hallmarks are found on each lug, similar to certain Patek Philippe references. The crown is signed Roger Dubuis.

    The movement found in this 18-carat gold H37 is derived from the Lemania 8810 ébauche, internally named the RD 57. The Lemania 8810 ébauche was one of the most reliable calibres made at the time and allowed for other complications to be integrated within the movement.

    Brand: Roger Dubuis
    Model: H37 
    Movement: RD 57 
    Case Diameter: 37mm / White Gold 
    Year: Circa 1999 / 2000
    Box and Papers: Full Set 
  • A LANGE SOHNE AVENTURINEA Lange Sohne 6

    A. Lange & Söhne 205.086

     

    $24,500

    Saxony’s meteoric rise and fall lead to the eventual creation of A. Lange & Söhne, founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1845. The foundations of German watchmaking can be attributed to both Lange and his mentor Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes. Sadly the company A. Lange & Söhne was expropriated after World War II as a result the brand disappeared. In 1990, Walter Lange, Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s great-grandson, ventured to start all over again. For the second time, a watch manufactory named A. Lange & Söhne, was built from scratch in Glashütte. The brand is now known to have created some of the most appreciated complications in the industry through its unique design language and master engineering.

    This 39mm 18-carat white gold reference 205.086 forms part of the Saxonia collection. The Saxonia collection houses some of A. Lange & Söhne’s most innovative references. This particular reference, oozes elegance paired with a sense of modernity. The ultra-thin case measures just 6.2mm in thickness, allowing for ultimate comfort on the wrist. 

    The magical dial of this two-hand watch is simply captivating. The base of the dial is made of solid silver and the upper part consists of aventurine glass. Producing aventurine glass sheets is by no means a simple task, it requires a continuous process of heating and melting the glass. Microscopic copper oxide crystals are added during the heating process, once cooled, the copper crystals saturate into the blue glass and this eventually results in the milky way starry night sky look. The sheets are then carefully cut out and polished, once glued onto the solid silver dial, the rhodium finished white gold applied hour markers, and hands are applied. The contrast between the aventurine dial and rhodium-finished hands works relatively well. 

    The manually wound calibre L093.1 measures just 2.9mm in thickness and still manages to provide a 72-hour power reserve. The movement features a lever escapement, in-house-made hairspring, the traditional hand-engraved balance cock and is finished to the high standard with traditional cote de Geneve. This example comes as a full set. 

    Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
    Model:  205.086
    Movement: L093.1
    Case Diameter: 39mm
    Year: 2021
    Box & Papers: Full Set 
  • EXCEPTIONAL DANIEL ROTH GMT RARE MECHANICAL WRIST WATCHDANIEL ROTH GMT

    Daniel Roth GMT

     

    $13,800

    This timeless elegant stainless steel GMT embodies the spirit of early Daniel Roth. It is rare for a watchmaker to successfully execute an instantly recognisable dial and case with such conviction. 

    The name Daniel Roth still causes furore amongst collectors for reasons that are known to most. In his attempts to become a recognised watchmaker, Daniel Roth completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before moving to the epicentre of watchmaking, Vallée de Joux. The revered school in Le Sentier and a seven year period with Audemars Piguet laid the foundations of Roth’s craft. When the Chaumet Brothers, the then owners of Breguet, were attempting to revamp and restore the glory days of Breguet, they turned to a young Daniel Roth. Fourteen years later, Roth, not only brought back the glory days for Breguet, he created some of the most specular watches since Abraham Louis Breguet’s time.  

    The Quartz Crisis signalled the end of the Chaumet tenure and allowed Daniel Roth to pursue ambitions of his own. In 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. The rise of the independents was almost renaissance like, Roth was one of the pioneers in this newfound era of ‘freedom’, other honourable names such as Svend Andersen, Franck Muller, F. P. Journe, Roger Dubuis played a crucial role in allowing this movement to flourish. Interestingly, Roth was able to carve out his own design language that made most of his pieces instantly recognisable. There were subtle cues and nods to Breguet’s work in his designs although what made Roth’s instantly distinguishable was his double-ellipse case, the difference polished facets found on the case and the unique construction of the case was ahead of its time. 

    The relatively young brand paired with its eponymous founder, Daniel Roth, had grand ambitions. In order to realise this, the brand accepted an external investment, which resulted in Daniel Roth being sidelined to an extent, similar to that of Roger Dubuis. In 2001, the Daniel Roth brand was sold to the Bvlgari Group and eventually morphed under the name. This resulted in Daniel Roth losing the right to use his own name for his future project.

    Our Example

    This double-ellipse stainless steel Daniel Roth measures 35 mm x 38 mm in diameter and 8.50 mm in thickness. The unique shape of the modernised case along with the addition of the downward slopping lugs allows this Daniel Roth to offer unparalleled comfort on the wrist. The black dial features a sharply executed pinstripe guilloché pattern, which complements the brushed chapter ring paired with Roman numerals. The use of a monotone dial highlights the different finishing methods found on the dial, Daniel Roth’s dials can be compared to an artist’s canvas, he expressed and executed some of the most spectacular dials in his early years when he was closely associated with the brand. 

    The time-only function can be easily distinguished from the dual-time complication due to the contrasting methods used. The dual time function is found at 12 o’clock with an inverted cyclops enhanced aperture, the function can easily be distinguished from the date found at 6 o’clock due to the GMT inscribed dial. The button found on the periphery of the case is used to advance the hours of the GMT. The time only relation function is segregated by classic petite arrow hands. 

    The Movement

    The automatic movement signed Daniel Roth, is adjusted to five positions and features twenty-seven jewels. The relatively slim movement is believed to be an ébauche made by Girard Perregaux (GP 3000 / 3100). Notable for the use of ball bearings in order to eliminate the use of lubrication on the rotor and is thought to have increased the efficiency of the movement. Aesthetically, the calibre is finished to a high standard. The classic Côtes de Genève is found on both the 18-carat gold rotor as well as the base of the movement.

    Brand: Daniel Roth

    Model: S247.1

    Movement: Calibre GP 3100

    Case Diameter: 35mm x 38mm

    Year: 1996

    Box & Papers: Signed Pin Buckle 

  • CARTIER TANK AMERICAINE RARE CPCP ROSE GOLD WRIST WATCHCartier Tank American XL 12

    Cartier Tank Américaine XL

     

    $28,000

    The Collection Privée Cartier Paris represents the fusion of iconic timeless designs such as the Crash, Tank, Cintrée paired with highly respected mechanical movements usually commissioned for Cartier. This 18-carat yellow gold Tank Américaine XL forms part of this golden era. 

    Cartier Wristwatches

    The modest Parisian roots of Cartier date back to 1847, founded by Louis-François Cartier, amidst a turbulent French Revolution. Despite being predominantly known as an Haute Jewellery brand, Cartier’s rich history is also intertwined within the horological landscape. The origins of the ‘first’ wristwatch can be traced back to Brazilian pioneer aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont who is thought to have complained about the inefficiencies of pocket watches, in turn, his friend Louis Cartier took on the task of creating a wrist-watch. Up until then, most wristwatches consisted of a hybrid mechanism to transform a pocket watch into a wristwatch. As a result, the Santos was the first wristwatch made by Cartier and is also believed to be one of the very first wristwatches made circa 1904.

    Despite boasting a rich horological history, many assume that Cartier Watches are purely design-oriented which is not entirely accurate. The highly respected Collection Privé Cartier Paris (CPCP) was originally launched in 1998. The principle behind the CPCP was to unearth some of Cartier’s most successful designs and fuse them which highly respected movements, usually made by third parties such as Piaget, Jaeger-Le Coultre, Frédéric Piguet, THA ébauches, and others. Interestingly, THA ébauches, represented one of the most fascinating movement manufacturers at the time, founded by François Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet and Vianney Halter in 1996. In an interview conducted by our friend Arthur Touchout, Flageollet highlighted the following:

    At the time the heads of product did not have extensive knowledge of their heritage. We gave them the idea to remake the chrono-monopoussoir Tortue.

    A rather unique way of distinguishing the CPCP collection from the others is the “Cartier Paris” inscription, the only reference that does not follow this is the Tank Cintrée. The Collection Privé Cartier Pris (CPCP) represents some of Cartier’s finest watches made to date, the collection was produced from 1998 till 2008 and remains highly sought after, due to the relatively low production numbers. 

    Our Example

    This 18-carat yellow gold Tank Américaine XL draws inspiration from the Tank Cintrée, with a slightly more masculine presence. It remains interesting to note that Cartier essentially created a completely new reference for the Tank Américaine, originally launched in 1989 with a quartz movement. Eventually in 1993 Cartier introduced this model with the highly respected mechanical movement 430 MC. This relatively young, but already iconic, reference made its way into the CPCP in 1998 with the first 30 examples believed to have been made in platinum. 

    The case measures 43mm x 25mm, despite the elongated lugs, surprisingly the comfort of this particular reference is achieved in the unique curved silhouette of the case. This results in the case hugging the wrist with particular comfort helped by the use of the traditional Cartier folding clasp. The different facets of the case feature alternating polishing techniques result in more emphasis being placed on the dial. 

    The dial is signed “Cartier Paris” and features the classic central rose motif silvered guilloché which radiates into a traditional guilloché when observed from the periphery of the dial. The Roman numerals are stamped directly onto the 18-carat gold dial. The hour marker VII is signed Cartier, a common trait found in the CPCP collection. The use of blue steel hands accentuates the overall legibility of the highly well-executed dial.  

    The Movement

    This yellow gold Cartier Tank Américaine is powered by the Calibre 430MC, which is based on the Piaget 430P. The 131 part manual wound movement features a 40-hour power reserve and 18 jewels. 

    Brand: Cartier
    Model: Tank Américaine XL 
    Movement: 430 MC
    Case Diameter: 43mm x 25mm
    Year: 2004
    Box & Papers: Original Warranty and box. 

     

  • Daniel Roth Automatic SteelDANIEL ROTH

    Daniel Roth Small Seconds

     

    $10,800

    An elegant stainless steel time only Daniel Roth, featuring meticulously well finished pin-striped guilloché dial.

    The name Daniel Roth still causes furore amongst collectors for reasons that are known to most. In his attempts to become a recognised watchmaker, Daniel Roth completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before moving to the epicentre of watchmaking, Vallée de Joux. The revered school in Le Sentier and a seven year period with Audemars Piguet laid the foundations of Roth’s craft. When the Chaumet Brothers, the then owners of Breguet, were attempting to revamp and restore the glory days of Breguet, they turned to a young Daniel Roth. Fourteen years later, Roth, not only brought back the glory days for Breguet, he created some of the most specular watches since Abraham Louis Breguet’s time.  

    The Quartz Crisis signalled the end of the Chaumet tenure and allowed Daniel Roth to pursue ambitions of his own. In 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. The rise of the independents was almost renaissance like, Roth was one of the pioneers in this newfound era of ‘freedom’, other honourable names such as Svend Andersen, Franck Muller, F. P. Journe, Roger Dubuis played a crucial role in allowing this movement to flourish. Interestingly, Roth was able to carve out his own design language that made most of his pieces instantly recognisable. There were subtle cues and nods to Breguet’s work in his designs although what made Roth’s instantly distinguishable was his double-ellipse case, the difference polished facets found on the case and the unique construction of the case was ahead of its time. 

    The relatively young brand paired with its eponymous founder, Daniel Roth, had grand ambitions. In order to realise this, the brand accepted an external investment, which resulted in Daniel Roth being sidelined to an extent, similar to that of Roger Dubuis. In 2001, the Daniel Roth brand was sold to the Bvlgari Group and eventually morphed under the name. This resulted in Daniel Roth losing the right to use his own name for his future project.

    Our Example

    This double-ellipse stainless steel Daniel Roth measures 35 by 38 mm in diameter and 10mm in thickness. The unique shape of the modestly sized case along with the addition of the downward slopping lugs allows this ‘medium’ sized Daniel Roth to offer unparalleled comfort on the wrist. The dial features a sharply executed pinstripe guilloché pattern, which complements the light, brushed chapter ring with roman numerals. The anchor-shaped hand found at 6 o’clock, is used for the seconds, the use of this distinctive shape allows for a harmonious uninterrupted view of the rest of the dial. The dial is signed “DANIEL ROTH” at 12 o’clock and “SWISS MADE” at 6 o’clock, the individual number of the watch is placed on the case-back. Additionally, the outer dial features 9 luminova plots found above the roman numerals.

    The Movement

    The automatic movement signed Daniel Roth, is adjusted to five positions and features thirty-two jewels. The slim moment is made by Girard Perregaux, the GP 3000 was launched in 1994, the movement found in this Daniel Roth is the GP 3100. The use of ball bearings in movements requires lubrication which could provide a myriad of issues.  To prevent these problems, Girard-Perregaux, in collaboration with a supplier, developed ball bearings, which eliminated any lubrication and increased the efficiency of the movement. Aesthetically, the calibre is finished to a high standard. The classic Côtes de Genève is found on both the 18-carat gold rotor as well as the base of the movement.

    Brand: Daniel Roth
    Model:  0257
    Movement: GP 3100
    Case Diameter: 35mm x 38mm
    Year: NA
    Box & Papers: NA
  • Out of Stock F. P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Rose Gold 40mm RareF P JOURNE INVENIT ET FECIT CHRONOGRAPHE

    F. P. Journe Centigraphe

    SOLD

    In 2007, F. P. Journe decided to cease production of the Octa Chronographe in favour of the mind-boggling ‘Centigraphe’. The word chronograph means ‘time writer’, whereas the word ‘Centigraphe’ means ‘100 writer’. Such is the superiority of the ‘Centigraphe’, in 2008 this reference won the highly recognized ‘L’Aiguille d’Or award at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve). The birth of ‘Centigraphe’ can be traced back to François-Paul’s passion for motorsports as well as his friendship with Jean Todt (ex-executive director of Scuderia Ferrari and current FIA president).

    This example of the Centigraphe features a 40mm rose gold case paired with a white gold dial, a configuration that is believed to be rather rare. The industry norm follows a similar path whereby, a given brand creates a new caliber and only then conceptualises the dial, François-Paul, works the other way round. One could argue that the design of this dial paved the way for Francois Paul to explore other design-related avenues, the then classical design mainly consisted of a smaller silver guilloché sub-dial (bell shaped) for the hour, minutes and seconds. This dial features many intricate details such as the three main sub-dials, the first found between the 9-11 o’clock markers read “SPR 1” (seconds per round) measures up to 100th of a second, the second found between the 1-3 o’clock markers reads “SPR 20” (seconds per round) revolves once every twenty seconds and third found between 5-7 o’clock markers reads “MPR” (minutes per round) measures up to ten minutes. The use of the metallic holder around the sub-dials creates depth within the dial, additionally, the guilloché found on the three sub-dials enhances the stepped dial effect. The use of red font allows the user to take note of the time scale, whereas the black lacquer font enables the use of the tachymeter scale in km/h.

    This video will provide a better understanding of how the complication functions.

    The Centigraphe remained in production till 2018 and apart from the anniversary of each boutique’s 10th year anniversary the piece will no longer be made. The Centigraphe Souverain collection supports the ICM (Institute for Brain and Spinal cord disorders), each sale of the piece from the factory level constituted a donation to the institution. The prototype CTS (no. 000) was sold at auction in 2012 with all proceeds donated to the ICM.

    Movement

    The distinction between the manually wound and automatic movements can be divided into the following: Octa (automatic) and Souverain (manually wound). The manually wound Centigraphe Souverain caliber 1506 is manufactured entirely from 18k rose gold. It is constructed with 50 jewels, from our research there are certain examples that have 49 jewels, an update to the movement might be the cause of this. The in-line lever escapement is unique for several reasons, firstly, the barrel (also found in the Grande Sonnerie) is patented due to its nature of providing two separate sources of energy without compromising the amplitude of the timekeeping. In essence, the chronograph has a separate gear train, driven directly from the mainspring, when not used it isolates itself from the escapement.

    Secondly, the use of the foudroyant allows for the 1/100th of a second to be recorded, despite only beating at 3 Hz (21’600 vph). Thirdly, the rather unique rocker to engage the chronograph has been successfully patented by F. P. Journe, the rocker allows for the user to use the function as a start, stop and reset tool. François-Paul noticed that the only error whilst activating and deactivating the chronographe, is the human error, it is virtually impossible to start and stop a chronographe according to real-time events without a slight delay. The unique rocker also attempts to solve that ‘issue’.

    The Set

    This 40mm F. P. Journe Centigraphe comes with an original F. P. Journe alligator strap, a corresponding rose gold buckle and is also accompanied with the original inner and outer boxes. The warranty card also forms part of the set.

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Centigraphe
    Movement: Caliber 1506, rose gold
    Case Diameter: 40mm
    Year: 2019 (sold)
    Box & Papers: Full set

     

  • Franck Muller Rare ChronographFranck Muller Monpusher

    Franck Muller Monopusher 7000

     

    $15,000

    The maverick Franck Muller was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Mecca of watchmaking to an Italian mother and Swiss father. At age of 15, he left La Chaux-de-Fonds to enroll at the Ecole d’Horlogerie de Genève. The highly gifted, Muller, was able to disassemble and reassemble movements with particular ease and successfully graduated from watchmaking school in 1978. The state of the watch industry from 1970-1980s was at its nadir, due to the Quartz revolution. Franck Muller, gained a stellar reputation for being one of the most gifted watch restorers, proudly working on some of the most historically important pocket watches and wristwatches for leading auction houses. In addition, several of the pieces found at the Patek Philippe museum were restored by Franck Muller. 

    Early Days

    Subsequently, in 1991 Franck Muller and Vartan Sirmakes founded Franck Muller Watchland SA to which the Franck Muller “Master of Complications” brand belongs. Nicolas Foulkes, an author, and authority on all things watches, interviewed Sir Elton John who encapsulated the dire state of men’s watches at the time …

    “Men’s watches were nice but they were boring. Suddenly Franck enabled men to go forward to more daring watches. Franck was always concerned with the inside; but the outside was beautiful too and the dials of the watches used different colours, and different design styles.”

    In a way, Franck Muller paved the way for others to follow suit. His markable complications caught everyone’s attention, in turn, the lust to own a Franck Muller catapulted to new heights. The world of Hollywood was also particularly receptive to his creations. The relatively reserved Swiss are known to shy away from the spotlight, on the other hand, Frank Muller was full of life and embraced this newfound fame, being one of the very few watchmakers to be famous outside of the industry.

    The achievements that both Muller and Sirmakes enjoyed together cannot be understated, the younger generations will simply not know how important Franck Muller once was. Similar to early Daniel Roth’s (Sirmakes was instrumental in the case development of Daniel Roths), Franck Mullers, earlier pieces are starting to gain traction amongst collectors.

    Our example

    This 40mm stainless-steel Franck Muller reference, 7000 R EN, was introduced in 1995 for the World Endurance Championship, at the time Franck Muller had their own racing team that raced a McClaren F1 GTR in both the BPR Global GT Series and 24 Hours of Lemans. Unlike the colorway of the car, the 7000 R EN remains to be an extremely sober and elegant wristwatch, reminiscent of Franck Muller’s early work. 

    The two-tone silver dial features applied blue steeled batons as well as blue steeled hands, for the pure timekeeping measurements Feuille hands are used for the hours and minutes. The subsidiary dial for the 60-second is found at 9 o’clock, subsequently, the 30-minute and 12 -hour registers are found at 3 and 6 o’clock. The sub-dials along with the outermost tachometer scale 1000 UPH appear to have aged to a pinkish-silvery shade. Despite the complexity of the complication, the dial remains highly legible due to typography and the different methods used to finish the dial. The flat rounded pushers found at 2 and 4 o’clock are used to start and stop the chronograph, the split-second mechanism is triggered using the co-axial button-crown found at 3 o’clock, the multipurpose crown can be used to also set the time.

    The three-body case measures 40mm and features a blend of polished facets as well as brushed. Despite the rather large polished rounded bezel it essentially accentuates the dial, the lack of crown guards also plays into favour of the dial. The accentuated lugs with screw bars allow for the watch to sit comfortably on the wrist. The working screw heads, that secure the strap the to the case,  are also finished to the same level found on the rest of the polished pushers. The brushed case-back is signed “Franck Muller – Geneve Master of Complication No. XX 7000 R EN”.

    Movement

    The movement found within the reference 7000 R EN is Calibre 7000 FM. At the base the movement uses the Valjoux 7750 which was originally introduced in 1974, the main difference found in this robust calibre versus its counterparts at the time was the use of the tilting pinion system along with the multipurpose cam. The 7750 is derived from the earlier, manual-wind Valjoux 7730. Adding to the Valjoux 7750 Franck Muller added a rattrapante module and interestingly opted to fit a platinum rotor on this particular calibre, in doing so, it allows for the movement to wind more efficiently. Not only was Franck Muller able to add a rattrapante to the Valjoux 7750, he was also able to seamlessly blend in the complication through the co-axial button in the crown.T he straight-line level escapement found in the the FM 7000 boasts a 44-hour power reserve and features hacking seconds.

    Brand: Franck Muller

    Model: 7000 R EN  

    Movement: Calibre 7000 FM

    Case Diameter: 40 MM

    Year: Circa 1995

    Box and Papers: Full Set

  • Out of Stock PATEK PHILIPPE 5164A AQUANAUT DUAL TIMEPATEK TRAVEL TIME

    Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164A

    SOLD

    In 1997 Patek Philippe introduced the Aquanaut, this milestone marked the first time the brand would sell a watch fitted on a rubber strap. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut blends in a few design cues from the Patek Nautilus line, it thought that the collection was essentially created to lure in an entirely new generation of collectors. The very first Aquanaut’s measured just 36mm in diameter and was limited to 1000 pieces in both ref. 5060A and ref. 5060J. This example, the 5164A, is the ultimate travellers watch, the GMT, along with the day-night indicators can be set rather quickly and efficiently.

    Despite its similarities to the Nautilus the Aquanaut possesses distinctively different features such as the case, dial, and strap. The satin-brushed finished case with alternating highly polished as well as bevelled edges was rather unique, the construction of the three-piece case is entirely different from its predecessor or sibling, the Nautilus. The screw-down crown also allowed for water resistance for up to 120 meters. The dial can be compared to Swiss Chocolate bars the interplay with the strap texture was rather unique and is still present to date.

    The 5164A

    This example, the ref. 5164A-001 was launched in 2014 and forms part of the first Aquanaut to house a complication. It features a secondary time zone function, displayed through the hollow hour hand, and in the form of two apertures at three and nine o’clock. The two buttons found on the left-hand case flank can be used to move the local-time hour hand forward or backward in one-hour increments. The date function sub-dial found at six o’clock is linked to the local (home) time indication. The clever approach to elegantly ‘hide’ the second time zone hand under the local time zone hand, when not used, allows for an uninterrupted view of the dial.

    The fumeé-like slate grey embossed dial features white gold applied numerals with luminescent coating, the black rubber strap complements the dial wonderfully, in addition, the stainless steel butterfly clasp provides for extreme comfort.

    The movement

    The Aquanaut Travel Time is equipped with a caliber 324 S C FUS self-winding movement, characterized by an ingenious and exclusive mechanism, in a form of a module, that simultaneously displays the time in two different time zones. The caliber beats at 4hz for improved accuracy. Remarkably, while the time is being adjusted, the hour hand displaying local time is disconnected from the movement so that the accuracy of the minute and seconds hands is not compromised.

    The Set

    This Patek Philippe 5164A-001 is accompanied by its Certificate of Origin, which confirms its sale in 2019. It comes with its original inner and outer Patek Philippe boxes.

    Brand: Patek Philippe

    Model: 5164A-001

    Movement: 324 S C FUS, self-winding movement

    Case Diameter: 40.8mm / Stainless Steel 

    Year: 2019 (sold)

    Box and Papers: Full Set. 

     

  • Out of Stock A RARE MECHANICAL F. P. JOURNE WRIST WATCH | LIMITED TO 99 | RAREF.P.Journe Octa Perpetuelle Tokyo 15

    F. P. Journe Octa Perpétuelle Tokyo

    SOLD

    This titanium F. P. Journe Octa Perpétuelle – Anniversaire is limited to just 99 examples, originally launched in 2009 to celebrate the 5 year anniversary of the brand’s first boutique situated in Tokyo. This particular Anniversary piece magnified the importance of the Japanese market at the time.

    Apart from the LineSports, the use of titanium is rarely used in the realm of F. P. Journe, it is thought that the titanium cases are strictly exclusive to Tokyo Anniversaries and Boutique Limited Editions. François-Paul Journe’s affinity for his Japanese clients is well documented as a result the creation of 5 Anniversaire Tokyo Editions have been created so far: Chronomètre Souverain (20 examples), Chronomètre à Résonance (12 examples), Tourbillon Souverain (5 examples), Octa Perpétuelle (99 examples) and the Centigraphe Souverain (10 examples). The ‘Tokyo Anniversaire’ all feature Titanium cases paired with a coated Ruthenium 18-carat white gold dial. Interestingly, the use of the orangy-brownish typography for the logo F. P. Journe – Invenit et Fecit is also unique to the Tokyo Anniversary editions. What sets the Octa Perpétuelle – Anniversaire apart from the other Anniversary pieces is the fact that this particular complication did not exist in the core collection of Journe’s offering at the time. This movement and complication were solely produced in 99 examples and thereafter discontinued, making this reference rather unique. 

    Dial

    The design of the dial draws inspiration from the Octa Calendrier. At the request of certain clients F. P. Journe decided to treat the Ruthenium coating on the Anniversary editions, resulting in a grey matte finished semi-grained dial. The two apertures found at 10 and 7 o’clock are used for the day and month, the retrograde date is found on the outer periphery of the dial and is indicated by the prolonged gilt centralised hand. The guiloche sub-dial is used strictly for time keeping. The entire complication can be set by the crown and the additional pusher found on the outer case at 8 o’clock, the slide to push pusher avoids any possibility of accidental activation. The multilayered dial is held together by 9 plated screws. 

    Movement

    The movement found in this remarkable reference is none other than the venerable18-carat rose gold calibre 1300.3. The distinction between the manually wound and automatic movements can be divided into the following, Octa (automatic) and Souverain (manually wound). The power reserve of the entire Souverain collection is based on antique marine chronometers, the power reserve indicator shows the number of hours elapsed since the watch was last wound. Therefore, when fully wound the indicator reads “0” as it has been zero hours since last wound. On the other hand, the Octa collection, when fully wound the indicator reads “120” and will gradually display how many hours of power are left. The Octa collection was introduced in 2001 with the introduction of the Octa Reserve de Marche, the caliber 1300 is the backbone of the entire automatic collection (till date). 

    The Octa Perpétuelle features three discs that are able to display the day, month, and leap year indication. The use of the leap year indicator is rather redundant and usually causes an unnecessarily cluttered dial. In order to conceal the leap year indicator, François-Paul Journe, created a sub-aperture within the month aperture. During a leap year, the February month aperture reads B FE ‘Bissextile February’ and the following non-leap years would read “1 FE”, “2 FE” and “3 FE”. 

    The watch comes with both its inner and outer boxes, original hand signed certificate which certifies that the watch was originally sold in October 2010. 

    Brand: F. P. Journe
    Model: Octa Perpétuelle Anniversaire Tokyo 
    Movement: 1300.3
    Case Diameter: 40mm
    Year: 2010
    Box & Papers: Full Set